
AT WORK WITH: Barbara Randall, Executive Director, The FashionCenter Business Improvement District Inc.
The FashionCenter sculpture of a gigantic button and sewing needle at the corner of Second Ave and 39th Street is an internationally recognized landmark. The group responsible for that and many other enhancements is the FashionCenter Business Improvement District Inc. The FCBID is a nonprofit corporation which, over the last 15 years, has transformed the Garment District into an easy-to-navigate, clean, safe cluster of neighborhoods. Fashion industry showrooms and corporate offices are intermingled with retail, commercial, hotel, restaurants and theaters, all under the familiar button banners. WWD correspondent Janelle Boucher spoke with the FCBID's executive director Barbara Randall.
WWD.COM: What are some of the biggest changes the FCBID has seen since its inception?
Barbara Randall: The shifting tenancy of the area; it used to be a single-industry district, but as manufacturing left and other uses have moved in, the defining characteristics are changing. It's still the home to American fashion and it's a world fashion capital, but the micro-economy of the district has become more diverse. The area now includes other "creative economy" uses such as graphic artists, photographers, architects, studio artists, galleries, off-Broadway theatres and others.
WWD.COM: What kinds of changes
have been made under your property improvement incentive
programs?
Barbara Randall:
When the side street
buildings housed manufacturing, there wasn't much need
for aesthetics on the street level. But as new
categories of tenants moved in and many side street
buildings began welcoming showroom businesses, the
pedestrian experience needed to improve, to be more
attractive and user-friendly. Our programs have focused
on two types: those that the Fashion Center implements
and those that we incentivize property owners to
undertake. Our efforts include new street lamps,
banners, news box-planters, flower plantings, waste
receptacles, street signage, enhancements, informational
pylons, security and sanitation services, and safety
lighting. Property owners have undertaken numerous
improvements including storefront lighting, see-through
security grille-gates, store signage, address plaques,
sidewalk replacement and most recently, the painting of
loading bays with bright colors, all with the BID's
support. Additionally, many owners are renovating their
lobbies and elevators, which improves what you see from
the street when looking into building entrances.
WWD.COM: In the past we saw a
trend of the conversion of former manufacturing spaces
into office or residential space. Do you expect this
trend to return? Why?
Barbara Randall: This
has been a consistent trend in the district and will
likely continue for years to come. There is not enough
manufacturing in New York City to fill the space that is
currently preserved for this use. There is no reason to
believe that manufacturing will return to these shores
and as a result, space that is designated for
manufacturing is being used by other categories of
business.This creates a great opportunity for the
neighborhood to become redefined; to have a more diverse
economic base; and to recognize the value of its midtown
location. There are, however, restrictive zoning
regulations that need to be revisited by the city policy
makers and planners in order for the neighborhood to
fully realize its potential. However, as part of any
plan to change zoning the city will have to carefully
consider measures that must be taken to ensure that the
fashion industry in this district remains here and
continues to thrive. Displacing the fashion industry
would not only be terrible for the industry, it would be
terrible for New York.
WWD.COM: Are there
opportunities for expanding the Fashion Center's role in
domestic and international design and wholesaling?
Barbara Randall:
Absolutely. Promoting the fashion industry and creating
business-to-business tools has always been a cornerstone
of our programming. We've done domestic and
international marketing in the past and we're always
exploring new ways to promote the local industry. Our
information kiosk and Web site ( fashioncenter.com)
are heavily trafficked by visitors from around the
world.
WWD.COM: What do you see as the
biggest challenge facing the Fashion Center BID?
Barbara Randall:
: On the local level,
the special garment district zoning has been a challenge
since the BID was established in 1993. There is simply
too much space being preserved for a severely diminished
use. Additionally, it forces owners to rent to uses not
permitted, or leave their spaces empty. It's been
difficult trying to find other ways to keep as much
manufacturing as we can while allowing for other uses. A
policy that created incentives for industry uses in the
district, but released space to other uses that were not
needed for the fashion industry, would make the most
sense. Disturbing the eco-system that currently exists
for the fashion industry, here in this district, would
surely threaten the continued viability of the industry.
However preserving space for a use that no longer exists
certainly does not make sense particularly when there is
such a shortage of office space in Manhattan. This is
not an insurmountable problem but it requires a real
commitment on the part of the city to develop and
implement a plan.
WWD.COM: What draws the rich
variety of non-fashion industries to the Fashion Center
District?
Barbara Randall:
Location, location,
location! Our midtown location is surrounded by
incredible resources of mass transportation and New York
City amenities. There are great office buildings on the
avenues, incredible loft spaces on the side streets,
great area retailers, and some of the best pedestrian
counts in the city.
Source: WWD.com

Jobs Season Puts Focus on Fashion Schools
Published: Monday, April 21, 2008
By Vicki M. Young
It's that time of year: Fashion and apparel school graduates are looking for
full-time jobs in a particularly challenging economy. For many prospective
employers, the obvious sources for talent include famed schools such as the
Fashion Institute of Technology and Parsons The New School for Design. However,
other institutions also offer strong fashion-related programs. Here are some of
them.
Massachusetts College of Art and Design
MassArt, as the college is called, offers both undergraduate and graduate
programs. At the undergraduate level, fashion design students learn to design
and manufacture apparel for men, women and children. According to the college,
students are encouraged to "develop their own style as they master detailing
techniques, design and pattern-making. Program faculty teach traditional design
methods, along with cutting-edge computer design technology. Students are
trained to consider issues of marketability, cost, care and comfort."
Undergraduate students who major in fashion design also are responsible for all
aspects involved in producing an annual fashion show of their works.
Senior-year students complete a "degree project" consisting of the creation of
an apparel line. Last year, third-year students competed for the opportunity to
have their designs produced as part of the catalogue firm Chadwick's fall-winter
collection.
According to Chadwick's, the winner and runner-up received scholarship awards
and summer internships with Chadwick's design group. The winning designs were
featured in the fall-winter catalogue, with a portion of the sale proceeds being
donated to MassArt for the construction of a new center for design in Boston.
Through MassArt's division of graduate and continuing education, a fashion
design certificate program is offered for those who want to advance their skills
in the area of fashion design.
The certificate consists of 10 courses, including what are called fundamentals
and master classes, which are offered on a rotating schedule. This allows for
the coursework to be taken in two years or for students to select those courses
that they need.
The four foundation courses in fashion fundamentals include Intro to Creative
Fashion Design, Pattern Drafting, Fashion Illustration and Fashion as Art. At
least one or two foundations classes are offered each semester, and are geared
toward preparing students for the master classes. The master courses are focused
on a fashion specialties, such as draping, costume design, fashion forecasting
and tailoring, to name a few. Students also are responsible for developing
individual projects. University of Delaware
The University of Delaware has a graduate certificate program in Socially
Responsible and Sustainable Apparel Business available to its students, as well
as those attending Cornell University and Colorado State University.
Students elect either a labor or environmental focus, and take seven required
courses, plus two in the selected track to complete the program. Participants,
whether students or instructors, are from all three universities, and the
offered coursework involves interaction via the Internet.
Each class lasts five weeks. Coursework this spring includes two options —
Redesigning Green Apparel: Design, Sourcing & Packaging, and Socially
Responsible Apparel: Global Policy for fall 2008. Courses include Bringing
Social Responsibility to Apparel Corporate Culture and Worker-Centric Social
Responsibility for Apparel Industry.
The project director is Marsha Dickson, professor and chair of the department of
fashion and apparel studies at Delaware.
Otis College of Art and Design
Otis College of Art and Design in Los Angeles aims to be at the forefront of
fashion design. Students work with apparel vendors on special projects, which
include developing textiles made from corn and flax, and using dyes such as
those derived from coffee and beets for fabric.
Founded in 1918 by Gen. Harrison Gray Otis, the founder and publisher of the Los
Angeles Times, the campus is based in the heart of Los Angeles' fashion
district. There are about 1,100 students enrolled, with some 200 majoring in
fashion design from the sophomore through junior years. About 55 seniors
graduate from the fashion design program each year.
One differentiating feature of the Otis program is the recruitment of top
designers to serve as mentors and guest faculty for each academic year.
Graduates typically work as assistant designers, associate designers, accessory
designers and product designers, for example. The college's alumni can be found
working at firms such as Abercrombie & Fitch, BCBG Max Azria Group, Calvin
Klein, Gap, J. Crew, John Varvatos, Liz Claiborne, Kay Unger, Mervyns, Pacific
Sunwear of California Inc., St. John, Volcom and Warnaco Group Inc.
Laboratory Institute of Merchandising
LIM, as it is known, is a specialized college in New York that focuses on the
business side of the fashion industry. Some of the bachelor's degree programs
offered are in fashion merchandising, marketing, management and visual
merchandising, coupled with a liberal arts background. The programs combine
in-class instruction with required internships. Open since 1939, the college has
a placement rate of more than 90 percent within six months of graduation.
Enrollment has grown from 200 students in 2000 to 1,120 last fall.
"Each program has three required internships students must complete before
they graduate. Each internship is linked to a specific course," said Elizabeth
S. Marcuse, president of LIM.
Marcuse said internships start as early as freshman year, where the last five
weeks of the fall semester are spent at a full-time internship in retailing.
"Students get to see how the buying office runs, and how the public relations
and event-planning departments work. Some work in the styling office," she said.
Seniors in their final semester spend four days a week working full time,
returning to the college on the fifth day to work on their marketing plans.
Students have been placed at firms such as Macy's, Chanel, Barneys New York,
Tiffany & Co., Bergdorf Goodman and Gucci for their internships.
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