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AT WORK WITH: Barbara Randall,
Executive Director, The FashionCenter Business Improvement District Inc.


The FashionCenter sculpture of a gigantic button and sewing needle at the corner of Second Ave and 39th Street is an internationally recognized landmark. The group responsible for that and many other enhancements is the FashionCenter Business Improvement District Inc. The FCBID is a nonprofit corporation which, over the last 15 years, has transformed the Garment District into an easy-to-navigate, clean, safe cluster of neighborhoods. Fashion industry showrooms and corporate offices are intermingled with retail, commercial, hotel, restaurants and theaters, all under the familiar button banners. WWD correspondent Janelle Boucher spoke with the FCBID's executive director Barbara Randall.
WWD.COM: What are some of the biggest changes the FCBID has seen since its inception?
Barbara Randall: The shifting tenancy of the area; it used to be a single-industry district, but as manufacturing left and other uses have moved in, the defining characteristics are changing. It's still the home to American fashion and it's a world fashion capital, but the micro-economy of the district has become more diverse. The area now includes other "creative economy" uses such as graphic artists, photographers, architects, studio artists, galleries, off-Broadway theatres and others.
WWD.COM: What kinds of changes have been made under your property improvement incentive programs?
Barbara Randall: When the side street buildings housed manufacturing, there wasn't much need for aesthetics on the street level. But as new categories of tenants moved in and many side street buildings began welcoming showroom businesses, the pedestrian experience needed to improve, to be more attractive and user-friendly. Our programs have focused on two types: those that the Fashion Center implements and those that we incentivize property owners to undertake. Our efforts include new street lamps, banners, news box-planters, flower plantings, waste receptacles, street signage, enhancements, informational pylons, security and sanitation services, and safety lighting. Property owners have undertaken numerous improvements including storefront lighting, see-through security grille-gates, store signage, address plaques, sidewalk replacement and most recently, the painting of loading bays with bright colors, all with the BID's support. Additionally, many owners are renovating their lobbies and elevators, which improves what you see from the street when looking into building entrances.
 
WWD.COM: In the past we saw a trend of the conversion of former manufacturing spaces into office or residential space. Do you expect this trend to return? Why?
Barbara Randall: This has been a consistent trend in the district and will likely continue for years to come. There is not enough manufacturing in New York City to fill the space that is currently preserved for this use. There is no reason to believe that manufacturing will return to these shores and as a result, space that is designated for manufacturing is being used by other categories of business.This creates a great opportunity for the neighborhood to become redefined; to have a more diverse economic base; and to recognize the value of its midtown location. There are, however, restrictive zoning regulations that need to be revisited by the city policy makers and planners in order for the neighborhood to fully realize its potential. However, as part of any plan to change zoning the city will have to carefully consider measures that must be taken to ensure that the fashion industry in this district remains here and continues to thrive. Displacing the fashion industry would not only be terrible for the industry, it would be terrible for New York.
WWD.COM: Are there opportunities for expanding the Fashion Center's role in domestic and international design and wholesaling?
Barbara Randall: Absolutely. Promoting the fashion industry and creating business-to-business tools has always been a cornerstone of our programming. We've done domestic and international marketing in the past and we're always exploring new ways to promote the local industry. Our information kiosk and Web site (fashioncenter.com) are heavily trafficked by visitors from around the world.
WWD.COM: What do you see as the biggest challenge facing the Fashion Center BID?
Barbara Randall: : On the local level, the special garment district zoning has been a challenge since the BID was established in 1993. There is simply too much space being preserved for a severely diminished use. Additionally, it forces owners to rent to uses not permitted, or leave their spaces empty. It's been difficult trying to find other ways to keep as much manufacturing as we can while allowing for other uses. A policy that created incentives for industry uses in the district, but released space to other uses that were not needed for the fashion industry, would make the most sense. Disturbing the eco-system that currently exists for the fashion industry, here in this district, would surely threaten the continued viability of the industry. However preserving space for a use that no longer exists certainly does not make sense particularly when there is such a shortage of office space in Manhattan. This is not an insurmountable problem but it requires a real commitment on the part of the city to develop and implement a plan.
WWD.COM: What draws the rich variety of non-fashion industries to the Fashion Center District?
Barbara Randall: Location, location, location! Our midtown location is surrounded by incredible resources of mass transportation and New York City amenities. There are great office buildings on the avenues, incredible loft spaces on the side streets, great area retailers, and some of the best pedestrian counts in the city.

Source: WWD.com

Jobs Season Puts Focus on Fashion Schools

 

Published: Monday, April 21, 2008

 
It's that time of year: Fashion and apparel school graduates are looking for full-time jobs in a particularly challenging economy. For many prospective employers, the obvious sources for talent include famed schools such as the Fashion Institute of Technology and Parsons The New School for Design. However, other institutions also offer strong fashion-related programs. Here are some of them.

Massachusetts College of Art and Design

MassArt, as the college is called, offers both undergraduate and graduate programs. At the undergraduate level, fashion design students learn to design and manufacture apparel for men, women and children. According to the college, students are encouraged to "develop their own style as they master detailing techniques, design and pattern-making. Program faculty teach traditional design methods, along with cutting-edge computer design technology. Students are trained to consider issues of marketability, cost, care and comfort."

Undergraduate students who major in fashion design also are responsible for all aspects involved in producing an annual fashion show of their works.

Senior-year students complete a "degree project" consisting of the creation of an apparel line. Last year, third-year students competed for the opportunity to have their designs produced as part of the catalogue firm Chadwick's fall-winter collection.

According to Chadwick's, the winner and runner-up received scholarship awards and summer internships with Chadwick's design group. The winning designs were featured in the fall-winter catalogue, with a portion of the sale proceeds being donated to MassArt for the construction of a new center for design in Boston.

Through MassArt's division of graduate and continuing education, a fashion design certificate program is offered for those who want to advance their skills in the area of fashion design.

The certificate consists of 10 courses, including what are called fundamentals and master classes, which are offered on a rotating schedule. This allows for the coursework to be taken in two years or for students to select those courses that they need.

The four foundation courses in fashion fundamentals include Intro to Creative Fashion Design, Pattern Drafting, Fashion Illustration and Fashion as Art. At least one or two foundations classes are offered each semester, and are geared toward preparing students for the master classes. The master courses are focused on a fashion specialties, such as draping, costume design, fashion forecasting and tailoring, to name a few. Students also are responsible for developing individual projects.

University of Delaware

The University of Delaware has a graduate certificate program in Socially Responsible and Sustainable Apparel Business available to its students, as well as those attending Cornell University and Colorado State University.

Students elect either a labor or environmental focus, and take seven required courses, plus two in the selected track to complete the program. Participants, whether students or instructors, are from all three universities, and the offered coursework involves interaction via the Internet.

Each class lasts five weeks. Coursework this spring includes two options — Redesigning Green Apparel: Design, Sourcing & Packaging, and Socially Responsible Apparel: Global Policy for fall 2008. Courses include Bringing Social Responsibility to Apparel Corporate Culture and Worker-Centric Social Responsibility for Apparel Industry.

The project director is Marsha Dickson, professor and chair of the department of fashion and apparel studies at Delaware.

Otis College of Art and Design

Otis College of Art and Design in Los Angeles aims to be at the forefront of fashion design. Students work with apparel vendors on special projects, which include developing textiles made from corn and flax, and using dyes such as those derived from coffee and beets for fabric.

Founded in 1918 by Gen. Harrison Gray Otis, the founder and publisher of the Los Angeles Times, the campus is based in the heart of Los Angeles' fashion district. There are about 1,100 students enrolled, with some 200 majoring in fashion design from the sophomore through junior years. About 55 seniors graduate from the fashion design program each year.

One differentiating feature of the Otis program is the recruitment of top designers to serve as mentors and guest faculty for each academic year. Graduates typically work as assistant designers, associate designers, accessory designers and product designers, for example. The college's alumni can be found working at firms such as Abercrombie & Fitch, BCBG Max Azria Group, Calvin Klein, Gap, J. Crew, John Varvatos, Liz Claiborne, Kay Unger, Mervyns, Pacific Sunwear of California Inc., St. John, Volcom and Warnaco Group Inc.

Laboratory Institute of Merchandising

LIM, as it is known, is a specialized college in New York that focuses on the business side of the fashion industry. Some of the bachelor's degree programs offered are in fashion merchandising, marketing, management and visual merchandising, coupled with a liberal arts background. The programs combine in-class instruction with required internships. Open since 1939, the college has a placement rate of more than 90 percent within six months of graduation. Enrollment has grown from 200 students in 2000 to 1,120 last fall.

"Each program has three required internships students must complete before they graduate. Each internship is linked to a specific course," said Elizabeth S. Marcuse, president of LIM.

Marcuse said internships start as early as freshman year, where the last five weeks of the fall semester are spent at a full-time internship in retailing. "Students get to see how the buying office runs, and how the public relations and event-planning departments work. Some work in the styling office," she said.

Seniors in their final semester spend four days a week working full time, returning to the college on the fifth day to work on their marketing plans. Students have been placed at firms such as Macy's, Chanel, Barneys New York, Tiffany & Co., Bergdorf Goodman and Gucci for their internships.

 
 
 
 

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